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Spinnaker Piccard Automatic Dive Watch

Starting from 317 €

The Spinnaker Piccard Automatic is a neo-vintage dive watch that pushes extremes to the limit: a 45mm steel case, an ultra-domed sapphire crystal and a water resistance of 550 metres. It pays tribute to Jacques Piccard and the bathyscaphe Trieste, which reached the bottom of the Mariana Trench in 1960, an event engraved on the caseback. Offered in seven dial colours, from Volcano Black to Tangerine orange, it runs on a Japanese automatic TMI NH35 calibre with three hands and date. A helium valve, unidirectional ceramic bezel and steel bracelet with deployant clasp round out a professional diver's specification sheet, priced between 317 and 485 euros depending on the version.

Spinnaker Piccard Automatic dive watch

Spinnaker is a nautically inspired brand marketed by Dartmouth Brands, an arm of Hong Kong manufacturer Solar Time Ltd., which also produces AVI-8, Ballast and Nubeo. Its territory is the accessible mechanical diver, drawn in a neo-vintage style, driven by Japanese calibres and regularly tied to partnerships: marine conservation, tributes to veterans, and popular licences such as SpongeBob or Peanuts.

The Piccard collection refers to a specific moment in the history of underwater exploration. In 1960, Jacques Piccard and Don Walsh reached the bottom of the Mariana Trench, at 10,916 metres, aboard the bathyscaphe Trieste. Strapped to the outside of the craft, a prototype diver with an oversized domed crystal survived the descent. It is this bubble crystal that Spinnaker openly references, stating that the Piccard's case nods to this watch tested aboard the Trieste. The caseback, for its part, is engraved with the Trieste.

The first Piccard, released in 2021, was a 300-piece limited series in titanium, 47mm in diameter and 25mm thick, water resistant to 1,000 metres, and quickly sold out. The SP-5098 that succeeds it returns to steel and to slightly more reasonable dimensions, while keeping the original spirit: a spectacular tool watch, designed for fans of oversized divers rather than everyday discretion.

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Technical specifications Spinnaker Piccard Automatic

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The Spinnaker Piccard Automatic diver in detail

Everything starts with the crystal. The ultra-domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment extends well beyond the bezel, giving the case that bubble silhouette that identifies the Piccard at a glance. This construction also explains the 21mm thickness, the most divisive figure on the spec sheet: on the wrist, the watch draws as much attention as it offers wearability. The 316L stainless steel case measures 45mm in diameter and 52mm between lugs, two figures that call for a broad wrist, not forgetting the 250 grams worn daily. The vocabulary here is that of the tool watch.

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The unidirectional rotating bezel with ceramic insert turns over 120 clicks, the crown is screw-down, the solid caseback carries the engraving of the bathyscaphe Trieste, and the chapter ring recalls the presence of the helium valve as well as the depth expressed in fathoms. The black dial of the Volcano Black version plays it understated: applied luminescent hour markers, wide hands, a date window and Swiss Super-LumiNova luminescence for low-light reading. Despite the distortion at the edges of the dome, reading the dial head-on remains immediate. The whole draws a neo-vintage diver that seeks not versatility but visual impact and technical excess, at a microbrand price that remains accessible.

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Seven dials for an oversized diver

The 45mm Piccard comes in seven dial colours: Volcano Black, Dark Cerulean in blue, Hunter Green, Lemon Yellow, Ice Blue, Dark Purple, and Tangerine Orange. The first three are offered at 317 euros when on promotion, while the other four remain listed at 485 euros and can be scarcer to find. Among these seven references, Hunter Green stands out as the most sought-after of the collection, a status that goes hand in hand with its current availability on promotion. On the four brighter colourways, only the mention of a sapphire crystal appears, with no detail given on the anti-reflective treatment.

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The rest of the construction does not vary from one version to another, including the 22mm steel bracelet. The mechanics are shared as well. The TMI NH35 calibre, a Japanese automatic with three hands and date, has 24 jewels, beats at 21,600 vibrations per hour and offers 41 hours of power reserve. Paired with a water resistance of 550 metres and a helium valve, this proven base delivers an oversized dive watch for real-world use, yet one whose specifications far exceed what is usually found at this price level. A choice for the curious collector, rather than an everyday watch.

Spinnaker Piccard Automatic dive watch: 550 metres on the wrist

A 45mm 316L stainless steel case with 21mm thickness and 52mm between lugs, a domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment, a unidirectional rotating bezel with ceramic insert and 120 clicks, a screw-down crown and a helium valve: the Spinnaker Piccard Automatic offers a water resistance of 55 ATM, or 550 metres, or 300 fathoms. The Japanese automatic TMI NH35 calibre, with three hands and date, delivers 24 jewels, 21,600 vibrations per hour and 41 hours of power reserve. A 22mm steel bracelet with a secure deployant clasp, a dial available in seven colours, a caseback engraved with the bathyscaphe Trieste, and a two-year international warranty.

01

Movement

The TMI NH35 calibre powers the Piccard: a Japanese automatic with three hands and date, an unbranded version of the Seiko 4R35, which accepts manual winding and features hacking seconds. It has 24 jewels, beats at 21,600 vibrations per hour and offers a 41-hour power reserve. This is not a haute horlogerie movement, but a robust base, easy to service and consistent with the watch's everyday price positioning.

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02

Diameter and materials

The 316L stainless steel case measures 45mm in diameter, 21mm thick and 52mm between lugs, for a stated weight of 250 grams. The unidirectional rotating bezel with ceramic insert frames a domed sapphire crystal that clearly extends beyond the case profile and defines the model's silhouette. The dial comes in black, blue, green, yellow, ice blue, purple or orange, always with applied luminescent hour markers. The solid caseback carries the engraving of the bathyscaphe Trieste. A massive, well-executed whole, which requires accepting an unusual footprint.

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03

Water resistance

With a water resistance of 55 ATM, or 550 metres, or 300 fathoms, the Piccard far exceeds the needs of recreational diving. The helium valve and the screw-down crown complete the setup, while the unidirectional bezel with 120 clicks allows immersion time to be tracked without risk of drift. The applied hour markers and hands receive Swiss Super-LumiNova luminescence that ensures legibility in darkness. The chapter ring recalls these specifications, in the spirit of instruments designed for deep diving and underwater exploration.

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04

Accessories

The watch is delivered on a 22mm stainless steel bracelet, closed by a secure deployant clasp with pushers fitted with a diving extension. This substantial bracelet balances the weight of the case, but sizing it takes patience, and the clasp sits slightly recessed compared to the rest of the construction. Spinnaker does not detail the box contents on its product page; an authorised retailer only indicates a complete delivery, in the branded box.

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Warranty

Spinnaker covers the Piccard with a two-year international warranty, that is twenty-four months from the date of purchase, subject to registering the watch with the manufacturer. This formality, simple to complete online, secures coverage over time without any complex procedure. Such a duration matches the standard seen among microbrands positioned in the accessible diving segment. The use of a widely available Japanese calibre also considerably simplifies servicing and repairs once the warranty period has ended.

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Spinnaker Piccard Automatic The pros
and cons

  • Water resistance of 550 metres
  • Helium valve as standard
  • Spectacular domed sapphire crystal
  • Proven TMI NH35 calibre
  • Seven dial colours available
  • Case size and thickness demand consideration
  • Weight of 250 grams
  • Some colourways already scarce
  • Laborious bracelet sizing process
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Prices and technical specifications are subject to change. Content and photos are not contractual.

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