Watch winders for automatic watches: useful or superfluous for diving and military watches?
Watch winders occupy a unique place in the world of watchmaking. Long associated with luxury watches with complications, they are now generating increasing interest among owners of automatic diving and military watches. Robust, designed for action, and often worn daily, do these watches really need an automatic winding device when they are not on the wrist? The answer is less obvious than it seems.
What is a watch winder?
A watch winder is a motorized device that rotates an automatic watch to keep its movement running, even when it's not being worn. It replicates the natural movements of the wrist through programmed rotations (clockwise, counterclockwise, or alternating) and a set number of revolutions per day. Originally, these winders were developed for watches with sensitive complications, such as perpetual calendars or moon phases, to avoid tedious adjustments. Their use has since expanded to simpler watches, including dive watches and automatic military watches.
Why consider a watch winder for a dive or military watch?
1. Keeping the watch ready to wear
For enthusiasts with multiple watches, a watch winder ensures that one watch is always accurate and ready to wear without needing to be adjusted. This can be particularly useful for a dive watch used only occasionally, but which you want to be able to access quickly before setting off or engaging in an activity.
2. Preserving Movement Lubrication
A frequently cited argument is the continuous circulation of oils within the movement. In theory, keeping a caliber running prevents the lubricants from solidifying or spreading unevenly. For some owners, this is a form of mechanical maintenance.
3. Convenience for Date or GMT Watches
While dive and military watches generally remain simple, many now include a date, day, or GMT function. A winding case eliminates the need to adjust these displays every time the watch is stopped for an extended period, especially on models where this can be cumbersome.
4. Presentation and Storage
Beyond its functional aspect, the winding box plays an aesthetic and organizational role. It allows watches to be stored safely, protected from dust and shocks, while also showcasing them. For some enthusiasts, it is an integral part of the watchmaking experience.
Limits and Drawbacks to Be Aware Of
1. Questionable Usefulness for Tool Watches
Diving and military watches are designed to be simple, robust, and easy to set. Unlike a watch with complex complications, setting the time on a stopped automatic diver's watch rarely takes more than a minute. In this context, the benefit of continuous winding may seem limited.
2. Continuous Mechanical Wear
A frequently debated point concerns the wear and tear on the movement. A watch in constant motion is subjected to continuous stress on its components (rotor, gears, escapement). While modern calibers are designed for continuous operation, some watchmakers believe that occasional rest is not harmful, but rather beneficial.
3. Sometimes Inappropriate Settings
Not all watch winders are created equal. Too many rotations per day or the wrong direction of rotation can lead to:
- Excessive winding (unnecessary, even counterproductive),
- Unnecessary stress on the automatic mechanism.
Military and diving watches often use tried-and-tested calibers, but they are not all the same. A poorly adjusted case can do more harm than good.
4. Cost and Size
A quality watch winder represents a significant investment, sometimes disproportionate to the value of a tool watch. Added to this are the bulkiness, the potential noise of the motor, and the reliance on a power supply or batteries.
Real Impact on the Longevity of Dive and Military Watches
Contrary to some misconceptions, letting an automatic watch stop is not a problem in itself. Modern calibers are designed to withstand periods of inactivity without damage, provided they are properly maintained.
For a dive or military watch:
- The most critical element remains water resistance (seals, crown).
- The determining factor in longevity is the quality of servicing, not continuous operation.
In other words, a well-maintained watch, worn regularly or wound manually from time to time, does not need a watch winder to remain in good working order.
When is a watch winder useful?
A watch winder can be beneficial if:
- You own several automatic watches that you frequently rotate,
- Some have practical functions that you want to keep active,
- You prioritize comfort and presentation over pure functionality.
However, it is less suitable for:
- A dive watch worn almost daily,
- A simple three-hand military watch,
- Uses where robustness takes precedence over convenience.
Simple and effective alternatives
For many users, simpler solutions are sufficient:
- Occasional manual winding before wearing,
- Natural rotation of the watches throughout the week,
- Storage in a standard watch box, without a motor.
These practices respect the spirit of dive and military watches: reliable instruments designed for use, not necessarily for constant winding.
In short: a useful accessory or a superfluous luxury?
Watch winders are neither essential nor inherently harmful. Their usefulness depends on the owner's profile, the size of their collection, and their preference for practicality. For automatic dive and military watches, they are more about comfort and aesthetics than mechanical necessity. In the spirit of these tool watches, simplicity often remains the best ally. A watch winder can complement a collection, but it will never replace regular maintenance, thoughtful use, and a basic understanding of how your watch works.
Editor: Éric Barse
Journalist, entrepreneur, and founder of the websites www.cafe-racer-only.com and www.scooter-3-roues.com, Eric Barse divides his time between his passions: motorcycles, travel, and watches. A graduate of the Saint-Cyr military academy and the 2nd RPIMA (Parachute Regiment) before pursuing a career in communications and digital media, he has a true passion for authentic watches that have accompanied his two-wheeled adventures for many years, from the Indian Ocean to Africa and Latin America!
