Edox Neptunian Automatic Dive Watch
Starting from 1.189 €The Edox Neptunian Automatic is a Swiss deep-diving watch built to withstand pressures that very few mechanical watches will face. Water resistant to 1,000 metres, fitted with a helium valve and the patented Double O'ring system the brand has used since 1961, it follows in the line of saturation diving instruments while remaining affordable. Its 44mm steel case, ceramic rotating bezel and sapphire crystal make for a massive, legible, no-compromise tool watch, offered in seven references with gradient blue, black or green dials, on a three-link steel bracelet or rubber strap. It is aimed at divers, fans of technical watches and collectors of rugged divers at a reasonable price.
Edox Neptunian Automatic dive watch
Edox is a Swiss maison founded in 1884 in Biel, now based in Les Genevez, in the Jura, under the signature Maître Horloger since 1884. Its identity has been forged around water: since 1961, the brand has claimed the title of Water Champion. That year, the Delfin, water resistant beyond 200 metres, introduced the patented Double O'ring system, two rubber and nylon gaskets placed at the junction between the crown and the case, allowing the watch to be wound or set underwater without compromising water resistance. In 1965, the Delfin Hydro-Sub pushed resistance to 500 metres thanks to a tension-ring crown system. The Double O'ring has never left the catalogue and remains among the Neptunian's features today.
The model itself was born in 2021 under the name SkyDiver Neptunian. It is visually descended from a mysterious watch found in the brand's archives, annotated 1973, special production in a strictly limited series. According to a former watchmaker at the maison, this SkyDiver was reportedly a confidential project commissioned by a Swiss colonel for elite mountain paratroopers. That discovery gave rise to a limited-edition military reissue, then to this contemporary reinterpretation, with far greater water resistance. The design keeps the same spirit: pointed crown guards, a large screw-down crown, short lugs, all codes inherited from divers of the late 1960s and early 1970s. The Neptunian Automatic now belongs to Edox's permanent collection, alongside a Grande Réserve Date and a limited-edition POP.
Technical specifications Edox Neptunian Automatic
- Brand: Edox
- Model: Neptunian Automatic
- Reference: Depending on version
- Indicative price: 1.275 €
- Movement: Automatic
- Calibre: Calibre 80 (SW 200)
- Diameter: 44 mm
- Thickness: 15.6 mm
- Water resistance: 1000 m / 100 ATM
- Materials: Stainless steel
- Bezel: Ceramic
- Crystal: Sapphire
- Dial: Blue
- Strap: Metal or rubber
- Warranty: 2 years
- Box contents: Box, warranty card
The Edox Neptunian Automatic diver
The Neptunian Automatic makes its tool-watch calling clear from the outset. Its 44mm stainless steel case makes no attempt at discretion: with a thickness of 15.6 mm and a 21mm lug width, it embraces the massive construction demanded by resistance to very great depths. The pointed crown guards, the large screw-down crown and the short lugs echo the vocabulary of late-1960s divers, inherited from the 1973 archive watch that inspired the SkyDiver project. The stated overall length of 51 mm partly offsets the diameter and lets the case sit properly on medium to large wrists.
Legibility remains the priority. The gradient blue dial of this reference plays on depth of tone, with applied hour markers and hands treated with lume to stay readable underwater and in darkness alike. A date window sits at 3 o’clock, the model's only complication. The unidirectional ceramic rotating bezel, graduated over sixty minutes and fitted with a luminous marker, allows dive time to be tracked unambiguously, its material resisting scratches and salt over the long term. Above it, a 3mm sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment protects the whole. The screwed caseback bears an engraving of Neptune, the Roman god of the sea, a nod to the model's name and a reminder of this permanent collection's firmly maritime positioning.
Seven references for a deep diver
The Neptunian Automatic comes in seven references in the catalogue, offering real aesthetic choice without altering the technical structure. The gradient blue dial is available on the three-link steel bracelet, in a version with a matching blue ceramic bezel as well as one with a black bezel, and also on a black rubber strap. The black dial is found on steel and on rubber. The green dial comes on steel, either with a black ceramic bezel or in a monochrome version with a green bezel. Watches on a rubber strap are priced at €1,189 and those on steel at €1,275, the rubber strap also offering the lightest version in the collection, at 105 grams.
Mechanically, the watch relies on the Calibre 80, built on the Sellita SW200-1 architecture. This choice reflects a logic of reliability and controlled servicing costs, consistent with a positioning around €1,200 to €1,300 for a diver capable of withstanding 1,000 metres. The movement runs on 26 jewels at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour, with a power reserve stated at around 38 hours. It should be noted that the brand does not present the Neptunian as ISO 6425 certified, which takes nothing away from its full saturation-diving equipment. It is a serious tool watch, made to be used rather than admired.
Edox Neptunian Automatic dive watch: 1,000 metres made accessible
The Neptunian Automatic brings together everything expected of a deep diver: 44mm steel case, thickness of 15.6 mm, water resistance of 1,000 metres or 100 ATM, helium valve, screw-down crown fitted with the Double O'ring system and a screwed caseback engraved with Neptune. The unidirectional ceramic rotating bezel, graduated over sixty minutes, is paired with a sapphire crystal and a highly legible dial with luminous hands and hour markers. The automatic Calibre 80, based on the Sellita SW200-1, displays the date at 3 o’clock. Seven references exist, with blue, black or green dials, on a three-link steel bracelet or rubber strap, with a two-year warranty.
Movement
The Neptunian Automatic is powered by the Calibre 80, a Swiss automatic movement built on a Sellita SW200-1 base. It totals 26 jewels, beats at 28,800 vibrations per hour and offers a power reserve of around 38 hours, with an average accuracy recorded at around ±12 seconds per day. Its only complication is the date display, positioned at 3 o’clock. This choice favours robustness and ease of servicing, two essential qualities for a watch intended for diving and destined for regular servicing.
Diameter and materials
The case measures 44 mm in diameter for a thickness of 15.6 mm and a lug width of 21 mm, with a stated overall length of 51 mm. It is machined from stainless steel and topped with a ceramic rotating bezel, available in black, blue or green depending on the reference. The crystal is 3mm sapphire with anti-reflective treatment. The dials come in gradient blue, black or green, with luminous hour markers and hands. The rubber version, lighter, weighs 105 grams.
Water resistance
This is where the Neptunian truly comes into its own, with water resistance of 1,000 m / 100 ATM. The construction combines a screw-down crown with the Double O'ring double gasket, a system patented by Edox since 1961 that allows underwater manipulation, a screwed caseback engraved with Neptune, and a helium valve intended for saturation diving. The unidirectional bezel, graduated over 60 minutes, carries a luminous marker for tracking dive time. The brand does not, however, claim ISO 6425 certification for this model.
Accessories
Two setups coexist in the catalogue. The three-link steel bracelet, fitted with a deployant clasp with diving extension, equips the majority of references. Versions with a black rubber strap drop to 105 grams and are priced slightly lower. In both cases, the 21mm lug width remains the same. The watch is delivered in an Edox box along with a stamped warranty card, to be kept for any future service centre intervention.
Warranty
Edox covers the Neptunian Automatic with a two-year international warranty, applicable when the watch has been purchased from an authorised retailer and the warranty card has been duly stamped at purchase. The brand's network of service centres then takes over for servicing, a point that matters all the more on a diver with multiple gaskets, where periodic water resistance checks determine real-world use underwater. The movement's Sellita architecture also makes routine servicing easier.
EDOX Neptunian Automatic The pros
and cons
- Exceptional 1,000-metre water resistance
- Helium valve for saturation diving
- Double O'ring system patented by Edox
- Unidirectional ceramic rotating bezel
- Reliable, easy-to-service Sellita calibre
- Very imposing 44mm case
- Penalising 15.6mm thickness
- Power reserve limited to 38 hours
- No ISO 6425 certification
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