RALF TECH ACADÉMIE 37: three new watches with altered proportions
When RALF TECH comes to mind, the first images that usually spring to mind are imposing dive watches, professional instruments, and models developed in a military context. With the new ACADÉMIE 37 collection, unveiled on September 8, 2026, the French brand is taking a noticeably different direction. There is no dive bezel or oversized case; the diameter has been reduced to 37 mm, the dials are more refined, and three new versions—dubbed City Spirit, Purple Mood, and Out of Range—are launching simultaneously. Yet, despite this shift in style, RALF TECH retains several elements directly inherited from its tool-watch heritage. They are available starting at €1,500.
From 41 to 37 mm: the ACADÉMIE returns to classic proportions
The ACADÉMIE is not a new collection. RALF TECH originally launched it in 2016 with a 41 mm diameter, featuring an aesthetic inspired by watches from the 1950s and 1960s. Ten years later, the move to 37 mm significantly changes the character of the model. This reduction is particularly relevant in today’s context. After years dominated by larger diameters, especially in the world of sports and military watches, more restrained sizes have regained an important place in contemporary collections. At 37 mm, the ACADÉMIE above all returns to proportions much closer to those of the watches that originally inspired its design. The round case is made from polished 316L surgical steel, with relatively slender, downward-curving lugs. Above the dial, RALF TECH uses a 2.5 mm-thick domed “Glass Box” sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective coating. Visually, the result is therefore a long way from a WRX or WRV.
A RALF TECH without the appearance of a military watch?
Yes, at least at first glance. And that is precisely what makes this new series so interesting for Montre Plongée Militaire. RALF TECH’s recent history has largely been built around extreme environments. In 2005, the WR1 accompanied a world record for autonomous scuba diving at a depth of -330 metres. From 2010 onwards, the WRX reinforced the brand’s operational positioning through its use by French special forces and, according to RALF TECH, those of around twenty other countries. The WRV followed in 2014 with a more vintage interpretation, then the WRB in 2019 with more wearable proportions. The ACADÉMIE occupies a distinct place within this lineage. Its name refers to the ideas of knowledge transfer and training associated with military and police academies and major training institutions, yet its design deliberately abandons most of the outward signs of a tactical watch. With the ACADÉMIE 37, that distinction becomes even more pronounced.
Three dials, three personalities
RALF TECH is launching three versions simultaneously: City Spirit, Purple Mood and Out of Range. All three share the same case and architecture, but use different dials and straps to create three quite distinct personalities. The dials feature sunburst finishes and, on two of the models, smoked effects. Their appearance and depth therefore change noticeably depending on the light.
ACADÉMIE 37 City Spirit: the most classic
The City Spirit is probably the most restrained of the three. It features a sunburst silver dial paired with applied steel hour markers. Like the other two references, these are treated with white BGW9 Super-LumiNova. The photographs released with the press material show a deliberately uncluttered watch, with a contrasting peripheral minute track and a dial free from unnecessary complications. Three hands, twelve hour markers and the RALF TECH name make up the essentials of the display. It comes on a pearl-grey calfskin strap, with RALF TECH also supplying a black Tropic-style silicone strap. This second strap creates an interesting contrast: even with its dressier silhouette, the ACADÉMIE retains the option of returning to a much sportier aesthetic.
ACADÉMIE 37 Purple Mood: making a statement in purple
The Purple Mood is considerably less conventional. Its dial combines a purple, sunburst and smoked finish. In the photographs released by RALF TECH, the colour varies significantly between the centre and the outer edge of the dial, producing shades ranging from vibrant purple to much darker tones. It is paired with a matt black alligator strap, along with the same additional black Tropic strap. Purple is an interesting choice for a watch of this size. While the City Spirit embraces an unmistakably classic aesthetic, the Purple Mood uses its traditional proportions as a canvas for a much more contemporary colour. Visually, it is probably the version that moves furthest away from RALF TECH’s historic image.
ACADÉMIE 37 Out of Range: champagne dial and smoked finish
The third version is called Out of Range. It features a sunburst, smoked champagne dial, with shades that gradually become darker towards the outer edge. RALF TECH pairs it with a black farmed lizard leather strap, once again accompanied by a second black Tropic-style silicone strap. The result sits somewhere between a traditional dress watch and a much more contemporary interpretation. The champagne dial brings an almost vintage character, while the smoked finish prevents the design from becoming an overly literal recreation of the 1950s or 1960s.
An electric movement with nearly twelve years of autonomy
Beneath this classic appearance lies probably the most unusual technical feature of the new ACADÉMIE models. RALF TECH has chosen its Electric Micro Hybride RTE001 Long Range movement, with a claimed autonomy of up to 100,000 hours, equivalent to approximately twelve years of operation. It is an interesting choice because it runs counter to a common trend in vintage-inspired watchmaking: recreating a historical aesthetic while emphasising the presence of a mechanical movement. RALF TECH takes a different approach here. The exterior looks back to the 1950s and 1960s, while the movement prioritises autonomy and ease of use.
Twelve years of autonomy: another definition of the tool watch
This autonomy also offers a different way of looking at the ACADÉMIE 37. A tool watch does not necessarily have to be a massive timepiece surrounded by protective features. It can also be an object whose primary quality is its ability to operate for a long time with minimal intervention. The claimed 100,000-hour autonomy clearly contributes to this philosophy. The watch is designed for everyday wear without the constraints of winding or the limited power reserve of a mechanical movement. It is a far more discreet way of retaining the functional approach traditionally associated with RALF TECH.
100 metres of water resistance despite its city-watch appearance
The other characteristic that directly connects the ACADÉMIE 37 to the brand’s DNA is its water resistance. All three models feature a screw-down crown and screw-down caseback, with a stated water resistance of 100 metres / 330 feet. This is obviously a long way from the capabilities of RALF TECH’s true diving watches. Nevertheless, 100 metres is a solid specification for a 37 mm city watch and allows for far less cautious everyday use than a traditional dress watch with limited water resistance. The inclusion of the additional Tropic strap therefore makes even more sense. The ACADÉMIE can be removed from its leather strap and switched to a configuration better suited to water. This does not, however, turn the ACADÉMIE 37 into a diving watch: notably, it does not feature the elapsed-time bezel characteristic of a diver. It is nevertheless designed to cope with an aquatic environment well beyond the occasional splash.
BGW9 Super-LumiNova on a dress watch
The same philosophy applies to the hour markers. These are applied, made from steel and complemented by white BGW9 Super-LumiNova. The presence of luminescent material may seem like a minor detail, but it once again demonstrates the intention to retain a degree of functional legibility. RALF TECH has therefore not completely transformed the ACADÉMIE into a conventional dress watch. It retains several features inherited from the tool-watch world: night-time legibility, a screw-down crown, a screw-down caseback, substantial water resistance and an additional sports strap.
Watches assembled and made in France
The ACADÉMIE 37 is assembled in France, while the technical specifications for all three references carry the wording “Made in France”. This French dimension fits naturally with RALF TECH’s current positioning, as the brand’s identity remains closely associated with French professionals and institutions. It also allows the ACADÉMIE to occupy a different space from the many Swiss and Asian neo-vintage watches currently competing in the smaller-diameter segment.
Three series limited to just 100 pieces each
RALF TECH is not planning large-scale production for these first ACADÉMIE 37 models. Each of the three versions is offered as a limited edition of 100 pieces, with an engraved screw-down caseback individually numbered within the series. This means a total of 300 watches, divided between City Spirit, Purple Mood and Out of Range. All three references have been available since 8 September 2026, at a retail price of €1,500, through authorised RALF TECH retailers and directly from the brand.
The ACADÉMIE 37 reveals another side of RALF TECH
With these three new models, RALF TECH clearly isn't trying to create a miniature version of its diver’s watches. The ACADÉMIE 37 follows a different logic: taking the core principles that defined the brand’s identity—water resistance, legibility, autonomy, and functional design—and applying them to a watch with much more classic proportions. The result is quite unique. A 37mm case, sunray dial, "Glass Box" sapphire crystal, and leather strap might suggest a 1960s-inspired dress watch. Yet, a screw-down crown, 100-meter water resistance, Super-LumiNova, an additional Tropic strap, and a battery life of around twelve years tell a distinctly different story. "City Spirit" favors understated elegance, "Purple Mood" takes a bolder approach with its violet dial, and "Out of Range" explores a vintage-style champagne aesthetic. Three interpretations, one evolution: RALF TECH has reduced the case size without entirely abandoning its tool-watch DNA. And that is arguably the most compelling aspect of the new ACADÉMIE line. Having built much of its reputation underwater and among professionals, the French brand demonstrates that a RALF TECH instrument can now measure 37mm and slip easily under a shirt cuff.
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Editor: Éric Barse
Journalist, entrepreneur, and founder of the websites www.cafe-racer-only.com and www.scooter-3-roues.com, Eric Barse divides his time between his passions: motorcycles, travel, and watches. A graduate of the Saint-Cyr military academy and the 2nd RPIMA (Parachute Regiment) before pursuing a career in communications and digital media, he has a true passion for authentic watches that have accompanied his two-wheeled adventures for many years, from the Indian Ocean to Africa and Latin America!
