The Dirty Dozen legacy

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Vertex M36 pilot watch

Starting from 2.564 €

The Vertex M36 is a military field watch that closely follows the British W.W.W. specification of 1944. As the only British-based house among the twelve suppliers to the War Office, Vertex here produces the most faithful rendition of its historic model, brought back to its original 36mm diameter. Brushed steel case, matte black dial with numerals cast in blocks of luminous material, syringe hands and off-centre small seconds: everything recalls the instrument issued to soldiers before D-Day. The movement, however, is thoroughly contemporary, with a high-grade Swiss automatic, a screw-down crown and 100 metres of water resistance. A compact, understated and thoroughly documented piece for enthusiasts of authentic military watches.

Vertex M36 military watch

Vertex was founded in London in 1912 by Claude Lyons, who borrowed a thousand pounds from his father-in-law to start a house specialising in British casing of Swiss movements. Based in Hatton Garden and then in La Chaux-de-Fonds, the company saw its London workshop destroyed in a bombing raid in 1940. A year later, the founder's son-in-law, by then a captain in the British Army, was called upon to help the War Office equip its troops. Vertex received the specification in 1943 and in 1944 began production of the Cal 59 W.W.W., of which 4,652 units were delivered during preparations for D-Day.

This order made Vertex the only British-based house in the group that would go down in history as the Dirty Dozen, alongside Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Lemania, Longines, IWC, Omega, Record and Timor. The company closed its doors in 1972, before being relaunched in 2015 by Don Cochrane, great-grandson of the founder, with a first modern model measuring 40mm.

The M36, released in 2024, takes the exercise further by returning to the historic 36mm diameter. The dial typeface, the minute track, the syringe hands and the small seconds all follow the grammar of the original, while the caseback retains the W.W.W. engraving, standing for Watch, Wrist, Waterproof. The broad arrow marking, used with the express permission of the British Ministry of Defence, underlines this lineage. Listed in the permanent catalogue alongside the M100, the M60 AquaLion and the MP45, the M36 stands as the most literal expression of the brand's military DNA.

Technical specifications Vertex M36

Brand: Vertex
Model: M36
Indicative price: 2,565 €
Movement: Swiss automatic
Calibre: Sellita SW260-1 Top Grade
Diameter: 36 mm
Thickness: 11 mm
Water resistance: 100 m
Materials: Brushed 316L stainless steel
Crystal: Double-domed
Dial: Matte black
Bracelet: Expandable metal bracelet
Warranty: 5 years
Package Contents: Watch, presentation box, 3 bracelets

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The Vertex M36 military watch, heir to the W.W.W.

The Vertex M36 is aimed at those seeking a field watch with no concessions to current fashion. It all starts with the case: a 36mm format in brushed 316L stainless steel, its proportions redrawn from the 1944 Cal 59. With an 11mm thickness and a 46.5mm lug-to-lug, the watch stays discreet under a cuff and suits both slim and larger wrists, which explains much of the appeal it holds for collectors of period military pieces. The fully brushed surfaces avoid any stray glare, in keeping with the spirit of the instruments issued to soldiers.

Montre Vertex M36 15

The matte black dial carries most of the model's character. The Arabic numerals are not printed but cast in solid blocks of Super-LumiNova C3 grade X1, in relief, with typography taken from the original. The off-centre small seconds and syringe hands complete this vocabulary, while the broad arrow marking signs the piece's military lineage. The double-domed box sapphire crystal, fitted with an AR08 + AR06 anti-reflective treatment, reproduces the curve of the period's plexiglass without its fragility. The result is instant legibility by day and by night, which remains the first criterion of a successful military watch. The M36 reads at a glance, requires no learning curve and suits a suit as readily as it does the field.

Swiss mechanics and equipment of the M36

Beneath the screw-down caseback engraved W.W.W. beats a Sellita SW260-1 Top Grade calibre, a date-free, small-seconds version of one of the most widespread Swiss architectures. Fitted with 31 jewels and a Nivaflex hairspring, it beats at 28,800 vibrations per hour and is adjusted in three positions. The hacking seconds mechanism allows precise time-setting, a valuable detail for synchronisation. Vertex assembles this custom version in its Swiss workshop, and the calibre's relatively slim profile directly contributes to the case's compact silhouette.

Montre Vertex M36 16

On the resistance front, the 100 metres of water resistance and the screw-down crown are the main updates compared to the 1944 original, which offered only basic protection against moisture. This level is more than enough for rain, swimming and exposed manoeuvres, without turning the M36 into a diver's watch. The equipment also plays its part in the positioning: the watch arrives in a branded military-specification technical box, along with an expandable metal bracelet and two strap-under-the-case options, one in sand-coloured fabric, the other in leather. The 18mm lug width stays true to the historic dimensions and opens the door to numerous alternatives. The five-year worldwide warranty rounds off the justification for the London house's asking price.

Vertex M36 military watch: fidelity to the W.W.W. specification

The Vertex M36 combines a brushed 316L stainless steel case measuring 36mm across and 11mm thick, with a 46.5mm lug-to-lug and an 18mm lug width. Its matte black dial follows the typography of the 1944 Cal 59, with Arabic numerals cast in blocks of Super-LumiNova C3 grade X1, an off-centre small seconds, syringe hands and the broad arrow marking authorised by the British Ministry of Defence. The automatic Sellita SW260-1 Top Grade calibre, with 31 jewels and 28,800 vibrations per hour, is protected by a double-domed box sapphire crystal and a screw-down crown providing 100 metres of water resistance. Five-year warranty.

Movement

The M36 is powered by the Sellita SW260-1 Top Grade calibre, a date-free version with off-centre small seconds, assembled by Vertex in its Swiss workshop. This automatic movement has 31 jewels, features a Nivaflex hairspring and beats at 28,800 vibrations per hour. It is adjusted in three positions and has hacking seconds allowing precise synchronisation, an expected feature of a military watch. Its particularly slim profile largely explains the case's compact silhouette, a rare quality for an automatic field watch.

Diameter and materials

The bespoke case measures 36mm in diameter, is 11mm thick and has a 46.5mm lug-to-lug, dimensions taken directly from the 1944 Cal 59. It is machined from brushed 316L stainless steel, with no polished surfaces, to limit reflections in the field. The double-domed box sapphire crystal carries an AR08 + AR06 anti-reflective treatment and reproduces the characteristic curve of period crystals. The matte black dial features numerals cast in Super-LumiNova C3 grade X1.

Water resistance

The 100 metres of water resistance relies on a screw-down crown and a solid screw-down caseback in steel engraved with W.W.W., for Watch, Wrist, Waterproof. This is a clear improvement over the 1944 model, which only offered protection against moisture and dust. The M36 can therefore easily handle rain, hand-washing and swimming, but it was not designed for diving. The dial, cast in Super-LumiNova C3 grade X1, ensures instant legibility in the dark.

Accessories

Each M36 is delivered in a branded military-specification technical box, along with three straps. The expandable metal bracelet echoes the spirit of British-issue watches, while the two strap-under-the-case options, one in sand-coloured fabric, the other in leather, radically change the character of the piece. The 18mm lug width makes substitutions easy and opens up a wide range of third-party straps. Vertex also offers spare spring bars and a deployant clasp in its accessories catalogue.

Warranty

Vertex covers the M36 with a five-year worldwide warranty, well beyond the industry's usual two years and consistent with the manufacturing promise made by the London house. This coverage applies to the watch's build quality regardless of the country of purchase, simplifying matters for an international buyer. The official listing also mentions a 30-day return policy and free worldwide delivery, with shipments dispatched within twenty-four hours.