Vario 1918 Trench: the watch that returns to the origins of the men's military wristwatch
Before becoming an almost universal men's accessory, the wristwatch long lived in the shadow of the pocket watch. The First World War would contribute to revolutionizing this practice. On the battlefield, taking a watch out of your pocket was hardly practical when you needed to act quickly. The ability to check the time directly on your wrist then took on a whole new importance. It is this pivotal period in watchmaking history that Vario has chosen to explore with its 1918 Trench collection. The White Dial with White Lume version incorporates several visual characteristics of so-called "trench watches" while abandoning their technical vulnerabilities: sapphire crystal, 316L steel, a Japanese automatic movement, and 100-meter water resistance bring the concept into the 21st century. It is available from €339.
When the watch leaves the pocket to join the wrist
World War I didn't invent the wristwatch. Models existed before, particularly among women, and military uses of wristwatches appeared before 1914. However, the conflict accelerated its adoption by men. In certain situations, quickly checking a watch worn on the wrist is much more efficient than manipulating a pocket watch. Watches from this era naturally retained characteristics inherited from their predecessors. The cases are relatively small, and the dials often use large Arabic numerals for easier reading. Some watches are also equipped with wire lugs to which the strap is attached. It is precisely this element that Vario chose to retain on the 1918 Trench.
Vario is not trying to make a replica
The Vario 1918 Trench should not, however, be considered an exact reproduction of a 1918 military watch. The Singaporean brand itself describes it as a reinterpretation of the World War I trench watch, designed to pay homage to the birth and spread of the men's wristwatch in the early 20th century. The distinction is important. The aesthetics deliberately look to the past, while the construction meets the standards of a contemporary watch. Vario thus replaces period materials and technical solutions with stainless steel, sapphire crystal, and a modern automatic movement. This approach allows you to wear a historically inspired watch every day without necessarily accepting the limitations of a genuine century-old timepiece.
A white dial with a distinctly 1918 aesthetic
This version is characterized by its modern white enamel dial. Its design prioritizes immediate legibility with large black Arabic numerals and a peripheral railway minute track. The overall design evokes the dials of early 20th-century pocket watches and military timepieces without excessive decorative elements. The hands and markers are coated with non-radioactive C3 luminescent material. This detail perfectly encapsulates the model's philosophy: to maintain the general appearance of a vintage watch while employing solutions compatible with contemporary use. Vario offers different interpretations of its 1918 Trench, with white, gray, black, or cream dials and several luminescent material configurations.
37 or 40 mm: two ways to interpret the trench watch
Another interesting option: the Vario 1918 Trench is available in two diameters, 37 and 40 mm. The 37 mm version measures 45 mm lug to lug and uses an 18 mm strap. The 40 mm version reaches 48 mm in length and comes with a 20 mm strap. In both cases, the thickness remains a mere 10 mm. The choice between the two diameters therefore depends not only on wrist size. The 37mm retains more of the spirit of small vintage military watches, even if it remains significantly larger than many authentic pieces from that era. The 40mm more clearly translates the concept into contemporary standards.
Discover the complete profile of the Vario 1918 Trench
Wire lugs as a signature aesthetic
The 316L stainless steel case retains one of the most recognizable features of early wristwatches: the wire lugs. Vario states that they have reinforced their construction to improve their security compared to the historical watches that inspired them. They play a significant role in the watch's identity. Without them, the 1918 Trench could easily resemble a simple contemporary dress watch with Arabic numerals. With these distinctive lugs and its leather strap, it immediately evokes the look of an instrument from the beginning of the last century.
A double-domed sapphire crystal
The modernization becomes much more apparent when examining the construction. The dial is protected by a 2 mm thick double-domed sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective coating on its inner surface. The double-dome design maintains a silhouette reminiscent of the domed crystals of vintage watches, while also offering the scratch resistance of sapphire. Vario also equips the watch with a screw-down crown. This feature contributes to a water resistance rating of 10 ATM, or 100 meters. This performance is far beyond what one would expect from an authentic trench watch from the early 20th century.
The Miyota 82S5 beneath the dial
Vario has chosen a Japanese movement to power its 1918 Trench. The version currently being presented by the brand features a self-adjusting Miyota 82S5 movement with 21 jewels, beating at 21,600 vibrations per hour. The caliber can also be wound manually and features a stop-seconds function when setting the time. Its power reserve exceeds 40 hours. Vario also adds an aesthetic touch to the movement with a gold finish and Côtes de Genève decoration. The brand thus prioritizes a tried-and-tested mechanism over a sophisticated caliber, the cost of which would likely have altered the watch's positioning.
The Bund strap completes the military aesthetic
The Vario 1918 Trench can be paired with a Crazy Horse leather strap featuring a Bund protection. Several colors are available, from Camel Brown to Coal Black, including Forest Green, Indigo Blue, and Ash Grey. The Bund system involves inserting a piece of leather between the watch case back and the wrist. Visually, this type of strap significantly reinforces the model's military and vintage identity. It also increases its presence on the wrist, particularly in the 37mm version. A 270mm single-pass bracelet is also offered by Vario. This option provides a lighter look while remaining consistent with the desired utilitarian character.
An accessible positioning in the world of historical watches
The Vario also has a compelling price point. At the time of our research, the 1918 Trench White Dial with White Lume was priced at €339. The watch comes with a two-year international warranty. Its positioning is therefore quite different from that of historical reissues offered by major Swiss watchmakers. Vario is situated in the world of micro-brands, with a very targeted approach to a particular period and type of watch.
Vario 1918 Trench: a tribute to the beginnings of the wristwatch
The appeal of the Vario 1918 Trench White Dial doesn't ultimately lie in a particular complication or the pursuit of mechanical performance. Its originality stems instead from its subject matter. While contemporary military watchmaking frequently revisits pilot's watches, World War II field watches, and military dive watches, Vario goes back a little further to explore a period when the men's wristwatch was still finding its place. The white dial, large Arabic numerals, wire lugs, and Bund bracelet all contribute to this evocation. But the 316L steel, sapphire crystal, 100-meter water resistance, and automatic Miyota movement avoid the limitations inherent in a watch that is actually a century old. The 1918 Trench is therefore neither an antique military watch nor an exact reproduction of it. This is a contemporary interpretation of a pivotal period in watchmaking history: the period when, under the influence of new practices at the beginning of the 20th century and in particular the military context, the watch definitively began to leave the pocket and take its place on the wrist.
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Editor: Éric Barse
Journalist, entrepreneur, and founder of the websites www.cafe-racer-only.com and www.scooter-3-roues.com, Eric Barse divides his time between his passions: motorcycles, travel, and watches. A graduate of the Saint-Cyr military academy and the 2nd RPIMA (Parachute Regiment) before pursuing a career in communications and digital media, he has a true passion for authentic watches that have accompanied his two-wheeled adventures for many years, from the Indian Ocean to Africa and Latin America!
