Vertex M36: the legacy of the "Dirty Dozen" in a 36mm military watch
In the world of military watches, some contemporary creations claim a more or less distant historical inspiration. The Vertex M36 occupies a different position: its design directly references a watch the brand produced for the British forces during World War II. With its 36mm case, black dial, small seconds subdial at 6 o'clock, Arabic numerals, syringe-style hands, and the presence of the famous British "Broad Arrow," the M36 embraces this heritage without radically altering the formula. Vertex conceived it as a modern interpretation of its 1944 W.W.W. Calibre 59, one of the twelve military watches now grouped by collectors under the name "Dirty Dozen." It is available from €2,558.
Vertex, a British company with Swiss roots
The Vertex story begins with Claude Lyons, a British entrepreneur active in watchmaking from the early 20th century. The Vertex name was registered in London and La Chaux-de-Fonds in 1916, already illustrating the company's dual identity: British management and Swiss watch production. The Second World War would profoundly alter its history. Vertex's facilities in Hatton Garden, London, were destroyed in 1940. The following year, Henry Lazarus, Claude Lyons' son-in-law and then a captain in the British Army, was asked to participate in supplying the armed forces with watches, thanks in particular to his knowledge of the Swiss watch industry. This relationship with the British forces led Vertex to participate in one of the most famous military watch programs of the 20th century.
The Dirty Dozen: Twelve Manufacturers for the British Army
During World War II, the British Ministry of Defence established a set of specifications to provide military personnel with a reliable and instantly legible wristwatch. These watches were designated W.W.W., for "Wrist Watch Waterproof." Twelve manufacturers met the specifications: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, and Vertex. This list would much later be nicknamed the "Dirty Dozen," in reference to the 1967 film The Dirty Dozen. The specifications imposed an essentially functional philosophy: a highly legible black dial, Arabic numerals, luminous markers, a small seconds hand, robust construction, and military markings. These constraints explain the aesthetic similarities between the twelve models. Vertex, however, occupies a unique position as the company was the only UK-based manufacturer among the original twelve suppliers, even though watch production took place in Switzerland.
1944: The Vertex Calibre 59
The watch that serves as the M36's reference today is the Vertex W.W.W. Cal 59. Vertex states that it launched large-scale production in 1944 and delivered 4,652 pieces in the context of preparations for D-Day. The original watch adhered to the military codes of the time with its matte black dial, luminous Arabic numerals and markers, peripheral minute track, and small seconds subdial at 6 o'clock. A crown large enough for easy handling and a deliberately robust construction completed the package. Inside was the hand-wound Calibre 59, a 15-jewel movement produced by Revue Thommen. This model is now sought after by collectors of military watches, as are the twelve British W.W.W. watches more broadly.
Discover the full specifications of the Vertex M36
From Vertex's demise to its rebirth
Like many historic watchmakers, Vertex was eventually weakened by the transformations in the watchmaking industry, particularly the quartz crisis. The company finally ceased operations in the early 1970s. The story could have ended there. But a century after Claude Lyons' beginnings, his great-grandson Don Cochrane decided to revive the family brand. Vertex was reincorporated and officially returned with the M100, presented in 2016 and launched in 2017. This first watch of the new era was already directly inspired by the military Calibre 59. The M36 continues this approach today, getting even closer to the historical proportions.
Vertex M36: the return to the 36mm diameter
Its name announces its main characteristic: a 36mm diameter. At a time when many military reissues have long adopted significantly larger dimensions than historical models, Vertex returns here to a particularly traditional size. The fully brushed 316L stainless steel case measures 36 mm in diameter, 11 mm in thickness, and 46.5 mm lug to lug. The lug width is 18 mm. These dimensions are an important part of the watch's character. The M36 does not attempt to give a historical field watch the presence of a diver or a contemporary tactical watch. It deliberately maintains a relatively compact silhouette. The crystal, however, represents a clear evolution compared to the 1940s model. Vertex uses a double-domed box-type sapphire crystal with AR08 and AR06 anti-reflective coatings.
A dial that retains military codes
It is by observing the dial that the connection with the W.W.W. becomes most evident. A black dial, white Arabic numerals, a peripheral minute track, a small seconds subdial at 6 o'clock, and syringe hands create a design primarily focused on legibility. Vertex, however, adds a striking contemporary touch with its use of molded Super-LumiNova. The luminous elements are not simply a thin layer of material applied to the dial; they significantly contribute to the watch's depth and visual identity. Another particularly important detail for military watch enthusiasts is the Broad Arrow on the dial. This arrow was traditionally used to identify property belonging to the British government. In the case of the M36, Vertex specifies that it obtained specific authorization from the British Ministry of Defence to use it due to its historical significance. This detail clearly distinguishes the M36 from a mere contemporary watch artificially adopting military symbols.
An automatic Sellita SW260-1 replaces the calibre 59
Vertex did not attempt to mechanically reproduce the 1944 movement. The M36 features a Sellita SW260-1 Top Grade automatic movement without a date function, customized for Vertex. This 31-jewel caliber operates at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour, or 4 Hz, and is regulated in three positions. Vertex also mentions a stop-seconds function and a Nivaflex balance spring. The choice of a small seconds hand primarily serves to maintain the visual layout of the original military watch while offering the convenience of a modern automatic movement. The crown is screw-down, and the watch is water-resistant to 100 meters. The M36 is therefore obviously not a dive watch, but this feature makes it significantly more versatile than its military predecessor.
Three straps for different interpretations
Vertex delivers the M36 in a military-inspired technical box with three strap options: an expandable metal bracelet, a sand-colored textile strap with a loop, and a leather strap of similar construction. Changing the strap significantly alters its character. With the textile strap, the military connection is particularly evident. The leather strap allows for a more classic interpretation, while the metal bracelet gives this small tool watch a different look, closer to an everyday timepiece. This versatility ultimately aligns quite well with how Vertex positions the M36: not as a reproduction intended exclusively for militaria collectors, but as a contemporary watch with a genuine military history.
A Historical Military Watch Rather Than a Mere Inspiration
This is probably what makes the Vertex M36 so interesting in today's field watch landscape. Its aesthetics are not revolutionary, nor do they aspire to be. Its appeal lies in the coherence between its current design and a watch actually produced for the British forces in 1944. The modern company also has a direct family connection to the original firm, as its revival was orchestrated by the great-grandson of its founder. Currently priced at €2,558, the M36 competes in a segment with numerous mechanical rivals. Its price, therefore, is not solely determined by its technical specifications. A significant part of its appeal rests on its provenance and the commitment to preserving the aesthetic details of the original military model. With its 36mm case, highly legible dial, small seconds subdial, Broad Arrow bezel, and Swiss automatic movement, the Vertex M36 achieves a relatively rare feat: modernizing a military watch without attempting to transform it into an imposing contemporary tactical timepiece. More than eighty years after the W.W.W. Calibre 59, it retains the proportions and functional simplicity that characterized the watches of the "Dirty Dozen," while incorporating the advancements of modern watchmaking in terms of automatic movement, luminescence, sapphire crystal, and water resistance.
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Editor: Éric Barse
Journalist, entrepreneur, and founder of the websites www.cafe-racer-only.com and www.scooter-3-roues.com, Eric Barse divides his time between his passions: motorcycles, travel, and watches. A graduate of the Saint-Cyr military academy and the 2nd RPIMA (Parachute Regiment) before pursuing a career in communications and digital media, he has a true passion for authentic watches that have accompanied his two-wheeled adventures for many years, from the Indian Ocean to Africa and Latin America!
